I love the way you write! Interestingly, preserved lemons are a big part of Vietnamese cuisine also! I'll have to make some preserved lemons when I have the space, time, an apartment, and a jar! If not, do you recommend anywhere to buy them?
Thank you! And interesting about Vietnam—I didn’t know. I only read about a Cambodian soup that uses them. It’s worth researching how lemons became part of their cuisine. I’ve spotted some preserved lemons in Warsaw at an Uzbek grocery stores. You could also try Turkish or Lebanese stores. They are slightly different than the Moroccan ones but worth trying.
Wonderful post Sanaa. Growing up we always had a jar of preserved lemons at the back of our fridge and I grew up using them both in traditional Moroccan dishes but also in things like garlic yoghurt, compound butters, marinades, pasta sauces, a twist on gremolata and, more recently have also increasingly incorporated them in my baking.
My gripe with a lot of the coverage around preserved lemons is that it seems to miss the fact that in Morocco preserved lemons are typically made from one particular type of lemon which is similar to bergamots in flavour. While you can of course preserve any citrus in salt, the flavour can vary hugely depending on which lemon or citrus variety you use.
Thank you for this generous comment, Sophia. I love how you’ve been using preserved lemons in compound butters—I'm tempted to try it myself.
As for the variety, while there’s a common belief that preserved lemons in Morocco are made exclusively with Doqq for their thin skin and fragrance, in practice, many types of lemons are used, as long as they’re unwaxed. Some older recipes mention lemons that resemble bergamots more than today's standard varieties, which adds to the confusion. But botanically and culinarily, doqq and bergamot remain distinct.
I also take your point about acknowledging the origin of ingredients but I also wonder at what point that is no longer necessary? Ie when does an ingredient become so part of common usage despite being “foreign” as to no longer warrant extra explanations (e.g. potatoes and tomatoes in European cooking).
What would Mexican cuisine be without cilantro? Or Italian food without tomatoes? Some ingredients do become universal over time, and there’s beauty in how they’re adopted and adapted across cultures.
But we still say Greek yogurt, Turkish coffee, or Peking duck because they refer to specific techniques and traditions. The same applies to preserved lemons. They may seem simple, but they’ve been shaped by place, method, and memory. Calling them Moroccan or North African honors that heritage.
The heart of this post is about culinary appropriation because it’s too often brushed aside. The Italians have long stood their ground when it comes to protecting their food. Maybe we should too.
Il faut rendre à César ce qui appartient à César :-)
I am fully with you that we should honour where ingredients come from but I think we should also let others who encounter these new-to-them ingredients discover their own ways of using them and incorporating them into their cooking. Just like recipes are not set in stone I don’t think there are set ways of using specific ingredients that you cannot depart from.
Sanaa, Thank you for transforming an ordinary day into a day spiced with the aromas and textures of Essaouira. Thank you for introducing us to techniques for transforming ordinary lemons into Preserved Lemons! I had no idea there are waxed and unwaxed lemons.
I still treasure dinners with you back in the Telezoo era, marveling at your culinary creations. Now you have shared one of your most essential secrets!:) Thank you.
PS. I wonder if I can buy unwaxed lemons around here….! xoxoxo
Those are delicious too, Micheline! Have you used them with your salmon recipe? They use similar ones in Egypt called lamoun me'aasfar - also small and firm. They preserve them with nigella seeds and dried safflowers (aasfar).
I know how much you like to go deep into the symbolism and meaning behind what we eat. Thank you for encouraging me to write when I did not feel like writing about food lately.
Happy to know they are a good kind can I use them with or without pulp?? Haven’t use them with salmon but you give me the idea to prepare a preserved lemon butter to top my next grilled salmon steaks. Should I rinse them before using wondering as I do not wish to get an over salted dish?
I love the way you write! Interestingly, preserved lemons are a big part of Vietnamese cuisine also! I'll have to make some preserved lemons when I have the space, time, an apartment, and a jar! If not, do you recommend anywhere to buy them?
Thank you! And interesting about Vietnam—I didn’t know. I only read about a Cambodian soup that uses them. It’s worth researching how lemons became part of their cuisine. I’ve spotted some preserved lemons in Warsaw at an Uzbek grocery stores. You could also try Turkish or Lebanese stores. They are slightly different than the Moroccan ones but worth trying.
Wonderful post Sanaa. Growing up we always had a jar of preserved lemons at the back of our fridge and I grew up using them both in traditional Moroccan dishes but also in things like garlic yoghurt, compound butters, marinades, pasta sauces, a twist on gremolata and, more recently have also increasingly incorporated them in my baking.
My gripe with a lot of the coverage around preserved lemons is that it seems to miss the fact that in Morocco preserved lemons are typically made from one particular type of lemon which is similar to bergamots in flavour. While you can of course preserve any citrus in salt, the flavour can vary hugely depending on which lemon or citrus variety you use.
Thank you for this generous comment, Sophia. I love how you’ve been using preserved lemons in compound butters—I'm tempted to try it myself.
As for the variety, while there’s a common belief that preserved lemons in Morocco are made exclusively with Doqq for their thin skin and fragrance, in practice, many types of lemons are used, as long as they’re unwaxed. Some older recipes mention lemons that resemble bergamots more than today's standard varieties, which adds to the confusion. But botanically and culinarily, doqq and bergamot remain distinct.
Thanks for clarifying!
Thank you for those ideas on how to flavor dishes with preserve lemons 🍋 I have a jar and wonder how to use them more often.
I also take your point about acknowledging the origin of ingredients but I also wonder at what point that is no longer necessary? Ie when does an ingredient become so part of common usage despite being “foreign” as to no longer warrant extra explanations (e.g. potatoes and tomatoes in European cooking).
What would Mexican cuisine be without cilantro? Or Italian food without tomatoes? Some ingredients do become universal over time, and there’s beauty in how they’re adopted and adapted across cultures.
But we still say Greek yogurt, Turkish coffee, or Peking duck because they refer to specific techniques and traditions. The same applies to preserved lemons. They may seem simple, but they’ve been shaped by place, method, and memory. Calling them Moroccan or North African honors that heritage.
The heart of this post is about culinary appropriation because it’s too often brushed aside. The Italians have long stood their ground when it comes to protecting their food. Maybe we should too.
Il faut rendre à César ce qui appartient à César :-)
I am fully with you that we should honour where ingredients come from but I think we should also let others who encounter these new-to-them ingredients discover their own ways of using them and incorporating them into their cooking. Just like recipes are not set in stone I don’t think there are set ways of using specific ingredients that you cannot depart from.
Beautiful writing! You make me want to go buy preserved lemons from our local grocery store and visit Essaouira right now.🙂
You can do both Leila! 💛🌴
Sanaa, Thank you for transforming an ordinary day into a day spiced with the aromas and textures of Essaouira. Thank you for introducing us to techniques for transforming ordinary lemons into Preserved Lemons! I had no idea there are waxed and unwaxed lemons.
I still treasure dinners with you back in the Telezoo era, marveling at your culinary creations. Now you have shared one of your most essential secrets!:) Thank you.
PS. I wonder if I can buy unwaxed lemons around here….! xoxoxo
Ohhh ML! Your message made me smile! Thank you for reading and remembering those laughter-filled dinners from the TZ days.
For both flavor and safety, I’d just go for organic unwaxed lemons 💛🌴
Thank you, Sanaa!!!❤️
Interesting post thank you. I bought a jar of preserved lemon made in Italy they are about the size of a golf ball.
Those are delicious too, Micheline! Have you used them with your salmon recipe? They use similar ones in Egypt called lamoun me'aasfar - also small and firm. They preserve them with nigella seeds and dried safflowers (aasfar).
Adoro tu relato amiga preciosa y mañana mismo hago los míos. Gracias Sanaa! Gracias Marruecos!
Me alegra mucho que te haya gustado, mi querida!
Espero con muchas ganas ver los tuyos.
Gracias a ti por leerme con tanto cariño! 💛
Now I know! Just bought some and will pass on this excellent information!
I know how much you like to go deep into the symbolism and meaning behind what we eat. Thank you for encouraging me to write when I did not feel like writing about food lately.
Happy to know they are a good kind can I use them with or without pulp?? Haven’t use them with salmon but you give me the idea to prepare a preserved lemon butter to top my next grilled salmon steaks. Should I rinse them before using wondering as I do not wish to get an over salted dish?